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| rjisinspired |
| Posted: Jun 27 2011, 12:19 PM |
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How good would this video card be for processing Flip videos?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16814150128
This is really all I can afford right now. Would this card be capable of processing/working with Flip videos a little bit faster? The card seems to be out of stock in a lot of shops but I know someone who has one of these and the cost was around $46.00. She doesn't use it for processing videos so I'm curious to know whether or not this mid riced card would be acceptable?
Hopefully it goes back in stock or if there are any cards that may be an equivalent to the 7300GS? It has to be a low-profile card also and supportive of a 600 watt supply.
I have also read about overclocking but I'm a bit hairy about that and I'm not sure of that being a good idea nor if the fan I have will take care of the heat from overclocking. |
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| evropej |
| Posted: Jun 27 2011, 02:16 PM |
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comparison
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of...rocessing_units
you need to find deals like this
http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2131468
or deals like this
http://www.google.com/search?q=gefore+7800...316558702dd1240
for 50 bucks, you can definately get a decent video card.
advise is this, older higher end cards or newer lower end cards. |
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| rjisinspired |
| Posted: Jun 27 2011, 03:27 PM |
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Thanks evropej. I will look more into this. |
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| phaeron |
| Posted: Jul 2 2011, 10:57 PM |
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Not advisable. This is a cut-down value chip with a narrow memory bus, and you'll be lucky if it doesn't slow down your video processing operations. It's fine for display operations and for playing video, but if you are trying to use a program that has 3D acceleration capabilities this is not likely to help. In general any NVIDIA graphics card that has "GS" at the end or a 3/4 in the hundreds digit is usually a very cut down value part that underperforms for its generation. They may not even have adequate performance for running Aero Glass smoothly.
Another problem is that this is a 7-series card, which means it doesn't support CUDA or any of the GPGPU processing libraries, which is going to further limit the kind of video acceleration you can do with it. VirtualDub's 3D acceleration will work, but given that I had trouble getting any benefit out of that with an 8400GS, I don't have hope for a 7300GS. In order to have GPGPU support you need at least an 8-series card or newer.
The GeForce 8800 you see in evropej's links will absolutely spank a 7300GS, but it will draw more power and probably be louder as well.
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| rjisinspired |
| Posted: Jul 14 2011, 07:41 PM |
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I'm highly thinking of getting a 460 or 480 GTX card by Nvidia. Thing is now that I am looking at this stuff on Amazon and Newegg there seems to be branded names by other companies of the same card. I don't know what I would get unless I go by the user ratings?
It was mentioned from another post that this kind of card should work fine but I wouldn't run at peak performance due to my board having a PCI-e 1.0 slot? I have been searching around and forum users from other places have said that the card should work fine but nobody gives an example of how much of a performance cut would be expected from using a PCI-e 2.0 video card in a PCI-e 1.0 slot.
Man, I wish this HD video stuff was easy. It's kind of funny because the money I put down on a computer in 1999, my first one, if I had that money now I could had built a kick-ass system now. 
My first computer was a Compaq Presario 5822 back in 1999 at Radio Shack, $1544.00!! Came with a 10GB quantum fireball drive, 96 megs of ram, USB 2.0? what's that? I will never forget the problems I had with USB until I researched it where I didn't have USB 2.0. That's pretty sad.
I have one of those 600 watt PSUs from the zip zoom place, same people that make the Ultrafly products. As far as I know that qualifies for the video card I'm thinking of getting.
It's my fault. I had to see what this HD thing was about and got a Flip UltraHD last August and I have been hooked since. Now they are discontinued items as of a few months ago. That's a real pisser. I had seen that there have been people saying that if you have a Flip you are a loser but for the quality it isn't too bad really. The Flip has shortcomings like no manual anything which would had been neat. I don't see why Cisco bailed on the Flip unless they being a networking company figured to just say "hell with it". Mergers can really suck sometimes.
Kodak has the Zi8 that looks good but I have heard so many horror stories about Kodak such as abnormalities at times and that you need a certified SD card to make it all work. The external mic feature for the Kodak version is a great feature.
My ideal Flip would be an optical zoom, a manual exposure turnable lens along with manual focus with a CCD lens as sensitive as a CMOS without the distortions then I would be in business. I can dream  |
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| evropej |
| Posted: Jul 14 2011, 08:36 PM |
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Spend a little time on this site and watch for deals, you can find a 8800 or better series for 50 bucks or so.
www.slickdeals.net
As for the HD adventure, i have a core i7 running at 4.14GHz wit super fast SSD 295/285MBS, and a geforce GTX 275 but still cant do full HD video.
Get a card which will give you a bit more horsepower on the front end but dont have any hope of huge gains.
Few apps which use the GPU take real advantage of them, but those are far and few.
examples: freemake video and photoshop cs5 that I know of which is noticeable.
Microcenter has deals on core i3 with mobo for 100 bucks, slickdeals has deals on ram for 20 bucks at times, and you can land a 9600 for about 60. You cant beat this, its dirt cheap for a nice starter system.
Read a lot of reviews before buying cameras, google around or go to a store and check them out if possible. Resources like www.dpreview.com can also be great for feature comparison.
The couple of dollars that you save with some products are not worth the problems and headaches.
I hope this helps
PS if you have a ATI card and want to make some money, try bitcoins |
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| rjisinspired |
| Posted: Jul 14 2011, 09:29 PM |
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Boy this HD is something else isn't it?
With the I7 that you have is it double or quad core? Damn if you are at that spec and still kind of slow should I sacrifice myself and get a supercomputer? lol. I'm looking at the Typhoon computers and I can't afford them. Funny thing about the Typhoon is that it comes with a 16mb video card, loooooooooooool, C'mon with all that power of a Typhoon? Well I guess you could plop the best Nvidia card in it?
I will keep my watch on slickdeals.
I am drinking today. Something I don't regularly do. Bad move when trying to come to decisions.
I would be happy with at least a 25% increase in anything with the Flip processing. Call me hard-up that's ok, lol. |
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| evropej |
| Posted: Jul 15 2011, 12:56 AM |
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Its a core i7 950 quad core. I typically only work in 720P. I have tried 1080i but the interlacing just causes so many issues with so many things. Processing the video for interlacing first is also a long painful process. Conclusion, 720P is so much better to process and looks just as good as 1080i. |
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| freedomdwarf |
| Posted: Jul 25 2011, 12:14 PM |
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Interesting thread!
I'm using an old Abit Tigerforce IX48-GT3 with ICH9, Intel QX8400 Quad-core at 2.7GHz, 4GB DDR3 Ram (1333MHz dual-channel) and nVidia 9600GT 1GB/DDR3 video card all running thru a 1,000W PSU.
For most things (including VD, Nero 9 and DVD shrink) I have to slow them down otherwise the CPU tends to get too hot with the stock cooler - which I intend to replace very soon with a CoolerMaster V8 or maybe an AquaGate.
I don't have any problems dealing with 720p or even 1080p HD video either coding, re-coding or watching.
I agree with evropej, you need something sensible for your video card and for higher-end ones they will need the extra power for them to work with. Most modern PSU's will have the extra 4-pin Molex or 6-pin cluster plug for modern video cards as the standard FSB/AGP slot on the motherboard doesn't usually provide enough power for them to work well or at full power.
For me, a 600W PSU is the bare minimum for a simple PC with just standard stuff - eg: 1xHD, 1xDVD burner, 1GB DDR Ram, standard on-board audio/video. I wouldn't consider anything less.
If you are wanting to delve into the realms of HD you seriously need to set your goals a lot higher IMHO.
You need a motherboard having an FSB of at least 800MHz - 1060/1600 would be even better. It also needs to have at least one 16x PCi-E graphics slot. Whether you go down the i3/i5/i7 route or some other spec doesn't really matter - a lot will depend on your budget.
4GB of DDR3 Ram if possible - or DDR2 at 800MHZ or better as a minimum.
Minimum CPU of dual-core/quad-core running at least 2.5GHz.
A video card with at least 1GB of DDR3 and PCi-E of 16x. A nVidia 880GT or GTX (not GS) would be my minimum choice.
And a sensible PSU - 750W minimum. No point in running everything at mega-max capacity; they get too hot or they break - give your hardware some slack to work with.
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| freedomdwarf |
| Posted: Aug 3 2011, 08:49 PM |
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Update
I've just installed a Corsair H80 HydroMaster cooler - works like a dream!!
Now I can run everything at 100% and not worry - CPU not been over 61C even though the ambient temperature has been 30C+ all day and 54C inside the case.
Love it! The best £73 I ever spent - well worth every penny! 
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| freedomdwarf |
| Posted: Aug 5 2011, 12:49 PM |
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Further Update
I did some reading up on the H80 regarding performance and reviews on various overclocker and hardware websites.
Most give it a thumbs up and some gave it a gold award - which is good news for me!
The interesting thing is that quite a lot of them said to fit the push-pull radiator fans the opposite way round to Corsair's instructions!! 
Their reasoning was that the generated heat from the cooling operation raises the internal case temperature by quite a fair margin and it would be better for all the other components inside the case if the whole rig ran cooler by exhausting the hot air rather than blowing it inside the case.
That sounded a reasonable argument to me and probably worth trying.
So... after a whole day and a few hours later of running, I stripped the radiator & fans and reversed the air-flow from sucking inwards into the case to blowing outwards. That made a HUGE difference!
The CPU now runs at an even more reasonable 52C under load and the ambient case temperature is down to a mere 43C or less.
The whole rig is running a good 10C cooler by switching the fans round.
As I type this post, the CPU is at 96%-98% usage at 50C with Ambient case temp at 41C and fan speed of just 1980rpm.
I also noticed the GPU (video card) temp had dropped from 69C to just 55C!!
This is one helluva sealed-unit cooler for the price and I'm over the moon with it.
The next multi-core rig I build will definitely have a H80 or something like it for a cooler.
After finding out the sheer size and weight of a Coolermaster V8 air cooler (my original choice), this is by far the best way to go if you need that sort of cooling capacity!
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Sometimes, intelligence means the obvious flies over your head! |
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| evropej |
| Posted: Aug 5 2011, 08:16 PM |
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This is a very interesting point and worth trying. I have the same configuration but with an H50.
Prime 95 tests with core running at 4.1GHz gives 73C max temp on a Core i7 950.
Update coming later today...
Update: no positive results here. Same temperatures as before. |
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| freedomdwarf |
| Posted: Aug 6 2011, 05:07 AM |
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Thats interesting....
The H70 is based on the older H50.
The newer H60 & H80 have different pumps - maybe that's the difference.
I also read that the H80 has fewer fins per inch than the other models (16-17 instead of 21-22).
There was also a test done using 12cm AP-15 super-fans instead of the stock Corsair ones that come with it and surprisingly the result was the Corsair ones were significantly better!
To quote hardwareheaven.com who compared it with the Antec Kühler H20 920- | QUOTE | | In terms of current performance the H80 scores well, outperforming a high quality air cooler in every test and also beating the Antec 920 by a degree or two throughout. On the whole it also tends to run a touch quieter at idle and full load. |
It's possible that the combination of the new double-thick radiator design and the pump is able to cool better??
Just a guess.
Seeing as you have the H70, I thought I would snag the conclusion from overclockersclub.com who gave it a GOLD award!
This is also one of the sites that said about switching the push-pull fan orientation. | QUOTE | The question is what do you get for your money when you pony up for the Corsair Hydro Series H80? Well you get top tier configurable performance that will allow you to run from mild to reasonably wild with a self-contained liquid cooling solution. You get a 35%+/- cooling performance boost under load right out of the box when running in the "Balanced" and "Performance" modes, while still gaining a 28% cooling bonus over the stock Intel cooling solution in "Quiet" mode. That is a significant impact to cooling performance over the stock cooling solution. This performance does come with a couple of issues though. When run in the default fan orientation of pushing air into the chassis, the Hydro Series H80 pushed all the thermal load into the chassis, driving up component temperatures significantly — even in my well-ventilated CM HAF 932 and the Corsair 600T. This cooling benefit for the CPU can't be overstated, but by changing the fan orientation to blow air out of the chassis, I saw only a one degree cooling penalty that is worth the reversal of the fans to a push-out orientation, in my opinion — lower VRM circuit and video card temperatures are worth the 1 ºC penalty. The other downside is that the 39dBA may be underrated, as in the two higher modes the fans were indeed loud. Again, I found that by switching the fan orientation to push the air out of the chassis, the noise levels dropped markedly along with the internal case temperatures.
As a step up from the H70, you get improved performance with newer technology and the ability to configure the performance level of the Hydro Series H80 cooling solution instead of having a single level of performance. The H80 supports Corsair's Link Commander controller for real-time control and monitoring of your cooling and lighting systems for more precise control of the H80 and upcoming H100. Installing the H80 is no more difficult than any of the current crop of self-contained liquid cooling solutions in many aspects. The mounting of the radiator is the same, but where the H80 is different and improved over the last generation Hydro Series is the mounting mechanism. The entire assembly can be tightened without using tools, if need be. The mounting mechanisms are included for both current and next generation sockets from both AMD and Intel, so the H80 can move on to the next build, offering extended value and performance. With a five year warranty, the H80 should easily have the lifespan to make this transition with the typical three year hardware upgrade cycle. When it comes down to it, you have to decide whether the price tag is worth the performance gained. The Corsair H80 does, however, have a lot of up side for the price point. |
I grabbed the latest Prime95 (v26.6) and gave it a torture test (in-place large FFT's for max heat etc).
The tests done in overclockersclub.com was 15 minutes for their test results.
On my PC, which has a stock (old) 4-bay case and not that well ventillated, I left it for over 4 hours and I just managed to get the CPU to creep up to 66C.
I couldn't run Prim95 for more than a minute or two with the stock cooler before it shut itself down with an over-heat temp of 95C!!
And in case you're wondering, this is an old case where the back plate has barely enough ventilation for two 8cm fans. For the corsair 12cm fans & radiator I had to drill 4 holes to mount it and the air is exhausting through that narrow 8cm grille-plate. One day I'll update the case but for now it'll do the job.
I'm beginning to sound like a salesman! lol.
Seriously though, this is an excellent piece of self-contained cooling kit and by all accounts it's a whole generation better than the older H70 and out-performs the Antec Kühler H20 920 which is considered to be one of the better ones on the market.
Was it worth the price?? You bet!!
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| evropej |
| Posted: Aug 8 2011, 04:05 PM |
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H80 scheduled for delivery on wednesday 
The fan direction does make a hug difference in my system, pointing in is 5-8C hotter.
One thing to note is that make sure you have enough fans blowing into the case to create some kind of high pressure which will move more air over the radiator.
I will post H80 Vs H50 results as soon as I get the cooling system.
Side note, I think this thread got hijacked lol. |
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| freedomdwarf |
| Posted: Aug 8 2011, 08:06 PM |
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Yeah, I think it did! lol.
My case only has 2 standard 8cm fans in the front blowing inwards over the HD's and 1 standard 8cm fan on the side panel exhausting. Having said that, there's not much airway/holes for those front fans to pull much air in as my front panel is pretty solid right to the bottom - no air gaps at the side for them either. So essentially, those radiator fans and the side fan are all exhausting the air flow from whatever can be dragged through the front. I think as long as there is enough air-flow for the H80 fans to do their job it doesn't matter if you have inward-blowing fans in the case.
What I did do differently was to clean off the CPU with nail varnish remover so it was pristinely clean (always advisable) and I also cleaned off the pre-applied sticky crap off the bottom of the CPU water block and used Arctic Silver paste instead. That was on advice from a UK cooling specialist who didn't get a sale from me because they didn't stock the H80 as yet!! lol. His advice was good and I'd reccommend them to anyone.
The review from overclockersclub.com noted that the fans were noisy. I don't think so personally - at least not excessively so. I have heard louder fans on some AMD machines with air coolers. I also have a beer cooler that I use to cool my marine fish tank and that is noisier than my H80 fans and I can hear the beer cooler from across the room when I'm sitting less than a foot from my PC tower. They are noticable tho and you certainly notice the difference if I ever switch the PC off! lol.
I'll give you some hints here because there's not much in the Corsair fitting instructions - just a bunch of pics that are supposed to be comprehensive but they aren't that brilliant.
Make sure you have 3 hands when finally fitting the radiator though. It's quite heavy and you need to line-up the screw holes through the case, through the 12cm fan holes AND get it spot-on to the threaded screw holes on the radiator - which can be fiddly!
Some have said to fit the radiator first but unless your CPU mount is well away from the back panel I wouldn't advise it - it makes the fitting of the CPU cooler block a very tight squeeze and very awkward! In the case of my motherboard it would be impossible to do it that way round....
CPU block first, inside radiator fan 2nd (the 'push' fan, before you mount the radiator), then mount the radiator with the the 'pull' fan last. I took my PSU out while I did this as it made it a lot easier to reach and fiddle with those screws at that end of it and to plug in the push-pull fans into the CPU cooler block. If you do take out your PSU, make sure you leave enough room after you've fitted the radiator to put it back and also allow for the exhaust air flow from it! I screwed up the first time and ended up drilling another 4 holes!! lol.
You can plug the fans into the CPU cooler block if you want (which I did eventually). That allows the Corsair pump controller to control the fan speeds depending on the CPU temp/load but it doesn't tell you what speeds they are running at. They can also be plugged into any PVR 3-pin fan slot so you can monitor the speeds via any software you have (CPU-Z is good for that). If you're going to plug the Corsair fans into 3-pin motherboard PVR sockets, make sure you set them up in the BIOS so they are associated with CPU temperature ranges rather than System ambient temperatures otherwise the fans will run slow.
You need to make sure the Molex power connector is plugged in (and I would use one direct from the PSU rather than a shared connection with something else) as that powers the water pump - it's not obvious from the Corsair installation pics. The 3-pin pigtail lead attached to that Molex plugs into the 3-pin CPU Fan socket so the motherboard knows the pump speed. If you don't plug it in it might think there's a CPU Fan failure and shut your system down!
I put the last comments in for the benefit of anyone else that hasn't fitted a water cooler before and the Corsair picture instructions aren't that clear where they go.
I hope your H80 performs as well as mine!!
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